Top 5 Signs of Engine Trouble

Your engine is the most important element needed to keep your car running. If things aren’t going exactly as they should, your engine will give you plenty of signs. Use this list to keep a close eye on your engine so you can recognize the first signs of trouble.

We've all done it: While sitting in traffic, maybe at a red light, you listen. Is that a whirring sound? What is that whirring sound? Where is it coming from? Is it from my car? Is it in the engine? Please don't let it be in the engine. It's just the air conditioner. Or maybe it's not even my car. The car in the next lane looks like a real clunker. I bet it's that car.

Repeat with any sound, any smell, any weird feeling you get while driving. Car jerking around? They need to pave this road. Engine smells funny? That's because this whole town smells. Check engine light come on? It's probably a loose gas cap. And of course, if you hear something strange, turn up the radio and drown it out.

Because otherwise, these things can give you a panic attack. With every sound, smell, and insistent light on the dashboard, we see days without a car to get to work and money flying out of our wallets like winged monkeys in little red vests and hats.

Here are a few of the scariest signs of engine trouble, the likely causes. And yes, they almost all require immediate attention -- but there's no need to panic. Unless you actually see those flying monkeys. They're creepy.

5. Warning Lights

If your car is working properly, these are what Audra Fordin of "What Women Auto Know" calls "hello, good morning" lights. You fire up the engine and the dashboard lights up like carnival. This is the car's computer checking everything out. One by one, each of the lights turns off and you're ready to drive.

If they don't turn off, though, that's bad. Either very bad or slightly bad, depending on which light remains lit. These lights are connected to sensors that monitor everything your car does. If something seems out of whack, the computer will use these lights to tell you what it is. It can't use its words; it's not KITT, you know.

The lights you'll probably want to pay the most attention to are:

• Check Oil/Oil Level Low
• Oil Pressure Low
• Check Engine

The "Check Engine" lamp is perhaps the most troubling of lights because it could mean so many different things, from "you didn't screw the gas cap on tightly enough" to "look out for pistons flying through the hood and into the stratosphere." The easiest way to find out what this light is telling you is to hook your vehicle up to a scan tool. This diagnostic tool looks a little like an oversized calculator and plugs into a communication port inside the car. After you instruct it to perform the scan, it "speaks" with your car's computers to find out exactly what's prompting the light to turn on.

You can purchase your own tool from an auto parts store for less than $100, but then what? You're probably not going to put on your coveralls and crawl under the hood yourself. Instead, visit a service station, where a technician will use the scan tool to identify the trouble.

4. Doing the Jerk

No, we're not talking about that cool dance where your knees kind of open and close and you move from side to side, and you can get all low and funky with it. We're talking about a car doing the jerk, which is much less cool.

Driving should be free of jerking, surging, or stalling. It should be smooth and easy, more like ballet than Beyonce. What's cool in the club is not cool in an engine.

But if your car is popping and locking, that's a pretty strong sign of engine trouble. It could be due to fouled spark plugs, clogged fuel lines or fuel filter, the main computer reading the driving situation wrong, or many, many other issues.

The last thing you want is for your vehicle to take its own sweet time accelerating, or to give out entirely, as you're merging onto a busy highway with other vehicles barreling down behind you. Likewise, high revving at idle or acceleration that's out of your control are situations you should have a qualified technician investigate and repair as soon as possible.

Preventive maintenance, including regular oil changes and belt replacements at recommended intervals help to keep you out of the danger zone.

3. Rude Noises

You know how your uncle Barney makes all those sounds at Thanksgiving, and he thinks they're hilarious? Well, if your car ever sounds like Uncle Barney, you've got serious problems.
A tapping or popping that sounds like Barney doing deep knee bends (which never happens), for instance, could indicate detonation taking place within the engine's cylinders. This happens when gasoline ignites prematurely in the combustion chamber of the cylinders and can potentially result in expensive piston damage.

If you hear a grinding noise when you attempt to start your car, your starter motor might need to be adjusted or replaced. If you hear grinding when shifting between gears, it could be transmission replacement time! It's not as fun as it sounds. And if you're driving a manual transmission, do not listen to Uncle Barney when he says, "Grind it 'til you find it."

In most cases, a little bit of noise from either your car or Uncle Barney -- like a mild ticking or clicking -- might be normal. Cars with roller rockers in their valve trains, for instance, emit some ticking noise; and fuel-injected vehicles also produce slightly audible clicks from the injectors [source: 2CarPros.com].

If in doubt, listen intently, try to track down the general area of the noise as best you can and then attempt to explain it in as much detail as you can to a qualified service professional.

2. Foul Smells

Cars rarely smell delightful. They're burning gasoline or diesel fuel, there's hot metal under the hood, and your brother ate a burrito just before he got in the passenger seat. There's not much you can do about your brother besides open all the windows and monitor his lunch intake, but any other automotive smells that make it into the passenger compartment spell trouble.

The scent may signal oil or coolant leaking from their normally closed-loop systems, or it may indicate dangerous exhaust gases invading your car's interior. Car and truck exhaust contains toxic gases such as carbon monoxide, so if the inside of your car smells as if you were standing behind your car, get out and get it fixed. Fight the urge to take a little nap first. So sleepy. That's the carbon monoxide talking, friends. At least open a window on your way to the shop.

The smell of burning rubber could mean you just did an awesome smoky burnout, or it could be telling you that drive belts or accessory belts beneath the hood are damaged, loose, or worn out. It could also mean that a rubber hose carrying important fluids is touching something that it shouldn't -- something that's too hot and is melting the rubber.

In any case, it's a good idea to act sooner rather than later, as these nasty smells could be linked to a much more crucial and expensive component.

1. Smoke Signals

Smoke can come from the front or back of the car, and it's not good in either case. But the tailpipe will send-up colored smoke in attempt to tell you what the problem is. Here is your secret decoder ring:

Blue smoke: Oil is escaping from its intended passageways within the engine and is being burned along with fuel. Of course, you could always keep adding engine oil to the crankcase to prevent it from being all burned up (and risking serious engine damage), but the smart thing to do would be to take the car in to have any worn or damaged seals repaired [source: Torbjornsen].

White smoke: Water condensation or antifreeze has mixed with the fuel supply. Again, adding coolant or antifreeze to your car's cooling system will keep your car from overheating for as long as you remember to keep feeding the reservoir, but the wise move is to have it checked out as soon as possible.

If the smoke is coming from under your hood, that probably means you ignored white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, and now your engine is overheating. Or maybe you completely forgot to add coolant at all, and the engine overheated. Not that anyone would ever do that. That's ridiculous.

Article courtesy of: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/diagnosing-car-problems/mechanical/5-signs-engine-trouble.htm#page=0

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Why Are My Brakes Squeaking?

Brakes are one of the most important safety features on your vehicle. So when they squeak it can be scary. But not all squeaks mean your brakes are going bad. This article offers common explanations for brake squeaks and offers solutions for how you can fix them.

Squeaky brakes can panic a driver, as brakes are arguably the most important safety feature in automobiles. Sometimes the concern is warranted, as the brakes are going bad. Other times, however, there ­may be nothing wrong at all.

Some brake noise is considered normal. Different driving conditions can affect brake noise, including severe braking, dusty or sandy conditions, or even humidity. Certain high-pitched brake noise happens because the semi-metallic brake pads used on newer cars are harder. It's a safer and longer-lasting alternative to the asbestos material it replaced, but the noise can be annoying [source: Davis].

But why does the squeak happen? The metal rotor that the brake pads squeeze together can sometimes vibrate, causing a squeaking noise. Luckily, there are several ways to fix this:

• Use a milk spray, lotion or cream on the back of the pads [source: Allen].

• Use sandpaper to sand off surface hardening of the brake pad/shoe surface.

• Try a different brand of brake pad!

Because brakes are a vital part of your car, it's important to have an expert perform any of the above changes to your brake system. In addition, it's very possible a completely different problem is causing your brake noise, so have a mechanic make sure it's not a more serious problem before you dismiss it as "normal brake noise." Remember: Brakes are designed to make noises when they're going bad to warn you, so it's actually a good thing. It's certainly better to find out your brakes are going bad hearing a squeak than jamming on the brake and not being able to stop.
Have a compact car? A high-pitched squeal often happens on smaller cars and is heard in the first few stops when brakes are cold and damp. Certain brands can be noisier than others, but there's an upside - these harder pads that have more metal generally last longer since they're stronger.

Article courtesy of http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-problems/brakes-squeaking.htm

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Tire Buying Tips

Having the right tires makes all the difference in how your car operates on the road and in bad weather. But buying tires can be tricky and confusing. Use these 6 tips next time you buy tires to make sure you’re getting the ones that are right for you and your car.

It can all begin with the Lincoln test: if you see the top of Abe's head when you place a penny upside down into the tread of a tire, it's time to go tire shopping. The passage of time, or damage and flaking on the sides of the tires, can also signal the need.

It can end up costing a pretty penny — usually $500 to $800 for a set of four.

Yet the majority of shoppers do no research before buying tires, according to Consumer Reports. So if you're among them, get smart and follow these tips to make the most of your money — and tires.

1. Get the right size. 

A tire's size is listed on its sidewalls in a sequence such as P265/70R16. Replacement tires should always match what's noted in your owner's manual or car door jamb, not necessarily what's currently on your vehicle.

2. Age matters, even with "new" tires. 

Tires naturally deteriorate over time, faster in hot climates. A tire's "birthday" is noted as a four-digit number following a letter sequence beginning with DOT, indicating the week and year it was manufactured — 5009, for instance, means the 50th week of 2009.

Vehicle manufacturers recommend you replace tires after six years, no matter what their condition. Since some shops stock old tires, check the age code to make sure you're not being sold ones that are already several years old and well on their way to needing replacement.

3. Learn the lingo. 

"All-season" tires are a popular and wise choice for most drivers. But think those called "high-performance" or "ultra high-performance" are better? Think again. Tire performance means ability to handle well at higher speeds, not lifespan. Any tire with "high-performance" in its name will likely wear out quicker.

4. Think twice about warranty. 

Manufacturers often tout mileage warranties — typically between 50,000 to 80,000 miles, depending on tire type. The mechanic whom I use, however, says, "In truth, drivers never get that kind of mileage from their tires. And the heavier the vehicle, the less you should expect — no matter how well you drive."

Before buying based on mileage warranties, know the fine-print details: If tires wear out prematurely, you don't just get a new set for free. There's a prorated credit for replacements, and for that, you'll likely be expected to prove you properly cared for the tires by keeping them inflated to the right pressure, aligned and rotated every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. There may be a careful inspection and demand for service records before warranties are honored.

5. Don't rely on the TPMS. 

If your vehicle was manufactured in 2008 or later, chances are it has a Tire Pressure Monitoring System, which warns when tires are underinflated. Insufficient air pressure not only is a safety hazard but speeds tire wear.

So at any given time, why do a majority of cars have at least one underinflated tire? "Most people never check their tire pressure," says Mark Cook of the Tire Industry Association, and the pressure monitoring system gives a warning only when tires are underinflated by 25 percent or more, not lesser amounts that still affect tread wear and tire lifespan.

To make your tires last longer, take five minutes every month to ensure that they're inflated according to specs listed on the car's door jamb. What's noted on the tires themselves is the maximum allowable pressure, not the pressure you want.

This isn't to say that a pressure monitoring system isn't worth keeping in good working order. Keep in mind that its brains are in special tire valves. They cost about $50 each and should be replaced every three to five years, says Cook.

6. Know how and where to bargain. 

Tires are expensive but can you dicker for a discount? You certainly should try, but good luck.

Your auto dealer or neighborhood garage will likely offer zero or very low discounts, claiming thin profit margins.

Because of their buying power, warehouse clubs such as Costco and BJ's sell many tires for less. But aside from coupon sales, don't expect to successfully bargain down here. Sales clerks at chains that specialize in tires tend to work on commission, so they may have more wiggle room or will make "match any price" offers.

Websites that sell tires (for shipment to local installers) are worth checking out too. Type "buy tires online" into a search engine to find these sites.

Overall, you'll fare best seeking a discount not on the tire, but on related services such as installation, lifetime tire rotations or oil change. Expect salesmen (who sometimes must meet sales quotas) to push for more expensive tack-ons such as brake jobs and alignments. If your car needs them, ask for a discount on them as part of your tire purchase

Article courtesy of http://www.aarp.org/money/budgeting-saving/info-10-2012/great-tips-for-buying-tires.html

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Buying car but unsure how to go about getting it insured? There are a number of important things you should know when shopping for auto insurance, such as what is your insurance actually insuring, how your car affects your premium, and how much coverage you actually need. Use these tips to make sure you’re getting the most insurance for the smallest price.

1. Know Your Coverage Types 

What is your car insurance actually insuring? Although you're buying a single insurance policy covering a specific vehicle, a number of components make up the final cost:

• Bodily injury liability: Covers injury and death claims against you, and legal costs, if your car injures or kills someone.

• Property damage liability: Covers claims for property that your car damages in an accident. Because liability coverage protects the other party, it is required in all but three states. 

• Medical payments: Pays for injuries to yourself and to occupants of your car. This is optional in some states. In "no-fault" states, personal injury protection replaces medical payments as part of the basic coverage.

• Uninsured motorist protection: Covers injuries caused to you or the occupants of your car by uninsured or hit-and-run drivers. "Under-insured" coverage also is available, to cover claims you may make against a driver who has inadequate insurance. In some states, as many as 30 percent of drivers are uninsured. 

• Collision coverage: Covers damage to your car up to its book value. Collision coverage carries a deductible, which is the amount per claim you have to pay before the insurance takes effect. The lower the deductible, the higher the premium. While it is legally optional, a lending institution or leasing company usually requires collision coverage. 

• Comprehensive (physical damage): Covers damage to your car from theft, vandalism, fire, wind, flood, and other non-accident causes. Comprehensive also carries a deductible

2. Your Vehicle Affects Your Premium

You might want a sports car or a fancy SUV, but your insurance company may charge you more to protect you while driving it. 

Insurance premiums are based partly on the price of the vehicle, which affects the replacement cost if it is stolen or "totaled" in an accident. How expensive the vehicle is to repair -- including parts and labor -- can also affect the cost. In addition, surcharges may apply to vehicles that are frequently stolen or involved in accidents. 

Industry-wide information on injury claims, collision repair costs, and theft rates by vehicle model is available from the Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI). You can write them at 1005 North Glebe Road, Arlington, VA 22201. HLDI is affiliated with the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). 

According to HLDI, the lowest injury claims are from large vehicles -- cars, pickup trucks, and sport-utility vehicles. Small 2- and 4-door cars have the highest injury claims. Small cars also are among the highest in collision costs, along with sports cars. 

If you have your heart set on a sporty vehicle, you'll probably pay dearly. Insuring a high-performance car can easily cost two or three times the insurance amount for an ordinary model.Sport-utility vehicles, the hottest market segment, often have higher insurance rates than mid- and full-size cars, but some SUV models are relatively cheap to insure. SUVs are "hot" for other reasons: They are among the most frequently stolen vehicles, and they are more expensive than most cars. Cadillac's Escalade is currently the most popular model sought by thieves, but it's followed by the Nissan Maxima sedan. SUVs also can cost more to fix after an accident if the 4-wheel-drive system is damaged. 

However, insurance companies set rates based on their own experience. If Company A has more collision and theft claims for a particular vehicle than Company B, then A will charge more for the same coverage. It all boils down to a company's actual experience with a particular vehicle or category of drivers. That is why it pays to shop around for insurance 

3. Who You Are Affects Your Premium  

Factors that you can least control may have the greatest impact on your insurance costs. Your age, gender, and driving record are key factors that affect your insurance premium. 

Single males under the age of 25 pay the highest rates. Statistics show they are involved in the most accidents, so insurance companies charge young men higher premiums than women of the same age.Married men, who statistically have fewer accidents, pay less than single men. A handful of states do not allow rates based on sex or age, but that prohibition has tended to result in higher rates for women, not lower rates for men. 

If you are convicted of moving traffic violations or of causing an accident, your premiums will likely go up, no matter what your age. Drivers with clean records -- no tickets, no accidents -- pay the lowest rates. 

Where you live also plays a big role in how much you pay. Urban areas, with their greater populationdensities and heavier traffic, get higher rates than rural areas. According to the Insurance Information Institute, the average insurance expenditure in mainly urban New Jersey -- traditionally the most expensive state -- in 2002 was more than double that of North Dakota, a rural state with the lowest average premiums. High costs in states such as Florida, Massachusetts and New York are attributed to growth in fraud and theft. 

In most states, too, insurers set rates by zip codes. If you live in a major city like Chicago or Los Angeles, you will probably pay more than if you lived in a nearby suburb. 

4. Decide How Much Coverage You Need

While it is dangerous to be underinsured, having too much insurance can be an expensive mistake as well. Without insurance, your property is put at risk in an accident that is your fault. The minimum amount of insurance required in your state is seldom enough. 

State law may require as little liability coverage as $15,000 per person, $30,000 per accident, and $5000 property damage. About half of the states require $25,000 per person and $50,000 per accident. Half of them require $10,000 in property damage coverage. If you can afford it, buy more than the minimum. After all, $10,000 for property damage may not be enough if you hit a $100,000 Mercedes-Benz. 

The more assets and income you have, the more insurance you need. Most insurers recommend liability coverage of at least $100,000 per person, $300,000 per accident, and $50,000 property damage if you have assets to protect, such as a house. Some insurers also recommend a $1 million "personal liability umbrella" policy issued in conjunction with homeowner's coverage. State Farm reports that such coverage averages $270 a year, but the amount varies significantly depending on location and other factors. An "umbrella" policy could protect a family from financial ruin in a major lawsuit. 

Like buying a car, there is no single best solution when it comes to buying insurance. Rates vary widely. Surveys suggest that you could pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 annually for the same coverage from different companies. Shop for insurance by consulting two or three of the largest insurers, such as State Farm and Allstate. Then, contact one or two independent agents who can quote premiums from more than one company. In addition, there are direct-marketing companies, such as GEICO and Progressive, which do business over the phone rather than through agents and offer some of the lowest rates. Ask for an itemized list of coverages and costs. 

"We're price-competitive," said spokesperson Dick Luedke of State Farm, whose rates dropped somewhat during 2004. But with so many factors involved in setting rates, it's wise to check several prospects. 

In 2004, the average price of auto insurance nationwide was $871, according to the Insurance Information Institute. They expected that the cost of auto insurance would rise by 3.5 percent in 2004, which would be the smallest increase in four years. 

Don't forget the Internet. Many companies now offer online quotes, and insurance shopping on the Web allows you to compare rates from multiple providers in the comfort of your own home. 

5. You Can Reduce Your Premiums 

The biggest difference you can make is to buy a vehicle that qualifies for a discount or at least doesn't carry a surcharge. Ask your insurance agent about the cost of insuring vehicles you are interested in before you make your purchase decision. Here are several other ways that you can save money on your car insurance: 

• Most companies give a break to those who drive less than 7500 miles a year. If you take public transportation instead of driving to work, your premium will go down. Out of the question? Try carpooling. 

• Make sure you get all the discounts you are entitled to. You might qualify if your vehicle has an alarm, for example. Discounts used to be given for such safety features as airbags, but they're fading away as those items become more commonplace. Discounts might also be available if you insure your vehicles and your home with the same company. People who pass a defensive-driving course or don't smoke or drink often get discounts. 

• Review the status of all the drivers in your family with your agent. Most discounts apply only to one portion of the policy, so don't expect dramatic savings. 

• Increase your deductible for collision and comprehensive. Switching from a $100 deductible to $1000 can reduce the collision portion of your premium by 30 percent, said Luedke. You'll still be covered for catastrophes, but you foot the bill for fender-benders. Also, think twice about filing small claims with your insurance: Why risk a premium increase? 

• Shop around. Instead of just renewing, study the fine print of your policy to see if its terms -- or your situation -- have changed. Another company might have better rates, but you won't know unless you shop. Most insurers give rates over the phone and many via online computer services, making it easy to compare premiums. 

• Drop collision coverage on older cars. Claims are limited to "book" value, so you're not likely to get much anyway if you car is more than seven years old. A good rule of thumb is to drop collision when the annual premium reaches 10 percent of your car's value. 

• Be a good driver. Avoid accidents and traffic violations and you will be rewarded with good-driver discounts. Bad driving is expensive. The "safer you can be" on the road, Luedke said, "the lower your premiums." 

• Drop coverage for such extras as towing costs or the expense of renting a car while yours is in the shop. The savings are probably small, but your new-car warranty's roadside assistance provision may provide them at no cost. 

• Have your teenager share the family car instead of owning his or her own. Be sure to tell your agent if your son or daughter makes the honor roll or moves away to college. Both qualify for discounts with most companies. 

• If your group health insurance provides generous coverage, consider dropping the medical-payments portion of your policy. 

• Keep your credit rating healthy. A growing number of insurers are considering a person's credit score when setting rates.

Article courtesy of : http://auto.howstuffworks.com/buying-selling/cg-car-insurance-tips.htm#page=0

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What to keep in your glove box

The glove box can be a useful treasure chest in cars, housing everything from important papers and receipts to tire gauges and extra fuses. It's a safe, easy-to-access place for crucial items, and almost every car has one. Even the best of us are sometimes guilty of littering our glove boxes with unnecessary items like CDs or cosmetics.
Don't let yourself go down that path. Rather, be prepared and consider the following things to keep on hand.
License and registration: Keep all important documents like proof of insurance, automotive registration and a copy of your driver's license in a plastic bag or held together by a paper clip.
ICE: Experts at AAA recommend keeping an ICE — in case of emergency — card with important information about you and your passengers. On that card you should list emergency contacts, physicians, any medications used or allergies for you and your passengers. Download an ICE card here.
Put your owner's manual on a diet: We'd all like to keep our car's owner's manual in the glove box, but have you seen the size of these things lately? If your car came with a combo pack of a manual plus other materials like stereo or navigation instructions, optional warranties and more, put the less vital guides elsewhere. Keep just the main manual — with important info on engine care, wiper blade sizes and more — in the glove box.
Tire pressure gauge: Unless you have a new Nissan Altima with its Easy Fill Tire Alert system, a tire pressure gauge is one of the most essential items to have in your glove box. Thankfully, it's also small.
Flashlight: There are dozens of small — sometimes even flat — LED flashlights on the market that take up only a little space but emit a lot of light. A flashlight will come in handy when trying to change a tire in the dark.
Fuses: Stock your glove box with a few backup fuses, which can be picked up at a hardware store for a few dollars. If your car's taillights or power windows stop working, replacing a blown fuse takes just seconds. Fuses are ideal for the glove box because they're tiny.
Wheel-lock key: Wheel locks help to ensure that someone won't walk off with your car's pricey wheels, but you won't be able to change a flat tire without the wheel-lock key. If your car has wheel locks, keep the key in the glove box next to the tire pressure gauge.
First-aid kit: If your car is short on storage space, find a small pouch or container and make a basic first-aid kit for the glove box. It should contain adhesive bandages, tissues or cotton balls, a pain reliever like aspirin and backup prescription medicine. You could put the ICE card in there, too. Some retailers carry first-aid kits for glove boxes such as the LifeLine, which costs less than $10.
Phone charger: If you have a smartphone you know how quickly the battery can run out of power, especially if you're using Bluetooth. Luckily, most chargers are small. A cellphone is one of the most important items you should have with you in a car in case of an emergency; don't let it run out of juice.
Paper map: Put a printed — yes, printed — fold-out map in your glove box. In this day and age where portable GPS units and cellphones with navigation software dominate, having an up-to-date paper map as a backup is just plain smart.

Read more: http://autos.yahoo.com/news/what-to-keep-in-your-glove-box-011717701.html

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5 Things That Can Void Your Car Warranty

Nobody in their right mind would want to void their car warranty. Yet, there are thousands (perhaps millions) who worry that one small thing will crumple their precious warranty up and throw it into the waste basket. A portion of those people have written to me lamenting the fact that they did something that voided it. So what are the most common actions that result in a voided car warranty?

What Is A Car Warranty?
First of all, in order to understand your part in the warranty relationship, it is vital that you understand what a warranty is and what it is not. A new car warranty is an agreement between the carmaker and the consumer. It outlines what you must do to keep your warranty in force, and a warranty can be voided in part or whole. For instance, if you don't have the oil changed in the engine according to the suggested maintenance schedule and the engine fails as a result, the carmaker has the legal right to void the warranty on the engine. The rest of the warranty remains intact, providing nothing else was affected by such negligence.
There are also warranty issues related to the installation of aftermarket products and/or services on a vehicle that is still under a new car warranty. Often people install aftermarket products for adding customizing features or they use certain services for vehicle maintenance.

Fluids: Use the proper fluids specified by the carmaker
Carmakers dump millions of dollars into research and development to determine the best fluids to put into their vehicles for maximum performance and longevity. So why do people continue to use what they think are the best fluids for their new vehicles? For example, a woman called my national radio show a couple of years ago crying on air that, when her husband changed the oil in her new Ford Taurus (3.0 liter V6 engine), he used straight 30-weight, non semi-synthetic motor oil and the engine had failed. When the oil was analyzed, it was found that the oil didn't provide proper lubrication to the engine and was the cause of the failure. Lack of proper rod and main bearing lubrication was cited as the key cause for the engine failure. Ford specifies using 5W20 semi-synthetic oil in that particular engine; hence the warranty claim was denied and the engine warranty voided. The point? Use whatever fluid the carmaker specifies in your car to keep your warranty intact. In this case, Ford was completely within their rights to void the engine warranty.

Receipts: Make sure you keep 'em (All)
Keep all receipts on any maintenance work done at facilities other than the dealership while your car is under warranty. Some people do not return to the dealer for service after buying a new vehicle. They have their vehicles serviced at quick lubes, their local repair facility, and/or anywhere they can find a deal. It's okay, as long as the service provider uses the specified fluids and OEM (original equipment) quality filters. So what's the problem? A lot of folks don't keep records and receipts. They have no documentation proving that the services were done according to mileage intervals as specified by the carmaker. When it comes time to file a warranty claim, the carmakers will ask for proof that the services were done. No receipts? No warranty coverage. This is one benefit of going to a dealer for regular maintenance while under warranty; the carmaker requires that they keep meticulous records. When and if a warranty claim becomes necessary, the dealership simply transfers all vehicle records electronically to the proper people for processing.

Tires and Wheels: Don't use non-conventional tire/wheel combinations or modify the suspension
One of the major crazes these days is installing "Dubs," (aka twenty-inch wheels) and making dramatic suspension modifications using extreme lift or lower kits. Base vehicle designs are compromised by such modifications. These include conventional alignment angles, vehicle undercarriage components, and drivetrain components such as axle bearings (due to extreme offset of the wheel hub on some wheels). Such compromise can result in steering, suspension, and drivetrain problems. In the event of a warranty claim related to these systems, the carmaker will scrutinize the modifications. If the failure is due to the installation, the warranty claims are denied.

Performance Modifications: Don't modify or "chip" your car
A few years back, Ford issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) regarding blown head gaskets on 6.0 Powerstroke turbo diesel engines in F series pickups (2005 and up). A rash of pickups were coming into shops across the country with blown head gaskets. The common thread? Power chips were installed to boost engine output. According to the TSB, on trucks with blown head gaskets, techs were to check for the installation of a power chip, which increases engine power by modifying the drivability and engine management parameters. Part of the programming modification on these vehicles included increasing turbo boost (which increased combustion chamber pressures), thus blowing head gaskets. In such cases where the vehicle was under warranty, claims were denied and engine warranties were voided. In this case, the carmaker confirmed that head gasket failure was indeed due to installation of the power chips. The carmaker was well within their right to deny claims and void engine warranties.

Towing: Don't tow a trailer with a vehicle that is not designed to tow
In order to tow a trailer, a vehicle must have an increased cooling system capacity, auxiliary trans oil cooling, beefed up rear frame area to support the hitch receiver, beefed up suspension to handle the additional weight, heavy duty brakes to stop the increased load, and special wiring to power the trailer lighting. Typically, vehicles used for towing that are not properly equipped experience an overheated engine, overheating of the transmission (and internal damage), frame damage, suspension damage, excessive brake wear, and compromised wiring (causing electrical shorts and malfunction of lights). Oh, and let's not forget the poor handling and safety hazards an overloaded vehicle presents to both the driver and other motorists on the roadways. If any of these issues arise as a result of towing with a vehicle that is not designed for it, warranty claims will be denied.

Read the full article: http://autos.aol.com/article/5-things-will-void-car-warranty/

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What Your Car Color Says About You

Do you drive a red car? If so, you could be sensual, dynamic, and outgoing. The car color you choose says a lot about who you are - after all, if you’re going to purchase a new, top-of-the-line vehicle with all the bells and whistles, it should be in a color you like. What you may not know is that other people will pick up different vibes from the color you choose. Here’s what the color of your car could say about you:

Gold: Warm, Intelligent, Glamorous
Gray: Neutral, Sober, Practical
Dark Green: Well-Balanced, Trustworthy, Traditional
Light Green: Organic, No-Fuss, Understated
Dark Blue: Confident, Credible, Authoritative
Light-Mid Blue: Calm, Faithful, True
Brown: Powerful, Unique
Beige: Natural, Down-To-Earth
Black: Powerful, Classic, Elegant
White: Pure, Pristine, Direct
Silver: Futuristic, Prestigious, Elegant
Red: Sensual, Dynamic, Outgoing

Learn about what other colors could say about you and read the original article here: http://bit.ly/Kqr9EV

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